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to Hakchang; difficulties with coolies; Hakchang men's hairstyle; painted frontal posts in rich men's houses; women allowed to wear men's head-taker's tattoo if they boil a head; pottery; latrines with pig-pens underneath; bird and ape clans |
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12th. To Hakchang - about 9 miles. We had great delay in starting (we did not get off till 9 a.m.) and I was not at all sure that we should get off at all. The Tuensang coolies turned out well enough down to the last 20 loads, and we had to wait an hour and a half for these, getting them by ones and twos, with threats and cajoleries, and comings and goings, stampings, shoutings and the rest of it ; Chongpho and Kangsho had carried from Kudeh, and it was the turn of Bilaeshi and Lomao to carry. They had never done it before, of course, and considering that, it was not so bad. Indeed it was rather a triumph to get all our coolies out of Tuensang as we did. I decided to go on to Chingmei via Tobu, as if I went direct by Kejok and Konya it would be very difficult to get coolies for the second stage, as it was practically certain that Tuensang would refuse to carry for more than one day, and I did not want to have to call for coolies from them for a second stage and be refused. There was bound to be a difficulty in getting to Tobu, but they could at any rate supply the coolies to take us on to Chingmei if we once got there. |
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On the way to Hakchang we passed the site from which both Tuensang and Hakchang were founded ; and Hakchang still speak the Chang language and wear the Chang tattoo but in appearance and customs they are entirely Konyak, except they do not shave the heads of their women as the neighbouring Konyak villages do. The Hakchang men cultivate a peculiar form of hair-dressing in which besides a tail of hair behind - usually knotted - they cultivate a straight lock in front coming right down the forehead, most of the men wearing hats or head bands. [SKETCH |
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Hakchang has about 200 houses crowded together on a very steep and stony spur (Pl. 14, fig. 1 |
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A deputation from Saochu, a Konyak village on the west side of the Yangmun, came in for the first time, to see us ; also from Maksha, an offshoot of Hakchang as also Kejok, Konya and Ninyam, who are friendly with Tobu. |
