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Chapter Twenty-seven. Return to Nagaland |
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first meeting with Nagas with tattoos on the road |
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Ultimately we came to a road barrier with a notice saying that there the Tuensang district began and entry was dependent on a permit. This checkpost was manned by military police. There was some delay because, on account of an outbreak of cholera in Assam, certificates of inoculation were required and I was the only one of our party who carried a valid certificate. Yet, ultimately we were all permitted to proceed, and a short drive brought us to Tijit, a forest settlement consisting of office buildings and houses. The people working there did not seem to be tribals, but on the road we met several groups of men who were unmistakably Konyaks. They looked exactly as they had looked thirty-four years previously, having tattooed faces, chewing betel, wearing tight cane belts, and carrying baskets and palm leaves used as umbrellas. |