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On top of the mountain range the path went through open country and near a row of stones at the edge of a field we were expected by a Sema chieftain, Kuvukhu from Kuvukhu of the Zumomi clan, one of the old Sema autocrats and a famous headhunter, whose village, which he himself had founded, only recently was brought under British control. (53) He was not wearing his chieftain's ornaments but had only stuck a few vermooth leaves in his ear lobes to protect himself from evil spirits while travelling through Angami territory. |