The Nagas

Chapter one. The Beginning Assamese tribes books Graham Bower/ Ursula (1) In the extreme north-east corner of India the long inlet of the Brahmaputra Valley cuts back deeply into the ranges running do...
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Chapter one. The Beginning the Nagas books Graham Bower/ Ursula The Nagas are divided into a number of different tribes and sub-tribes, Angamis, Rengmas, Tangkhuls, Lhotas, Semas, Aos, and many more t...
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Chapter one. The Beginning British colonial administration books Mills Pawsey Graham Bower/ Ursula Under British administration the Naga country and the other Assam hill-tracts formed " excluded areas...
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Chapter one. The Beginning effect of missionaries and the Plains books Graham Bower/ Ursula In the administered areas Mission and Plains influence have altered the tribes much. Caps, boots and trouser...
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Chapter one. The Beginning first impressions of the Naga Hills, 1937 books 1937 Graham Bower/ Ursula It all began in 1937 when, as a girl of twenty-three, I was on a visit to India. A broad belt of ju...
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Chapter one. The Beginning first sight of the Nagas books Lexie Graham Bower/ Ursula A group of hillmen scattered before us and stood on the roadside, staring. They were not the slim-built Assamese of...
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Chapter one. The Beginning Kohima books Kohima Graham Bower/ Ursula We breakfasted at Kohima, whose tidy bungalows and red-roofed lines spread out along the spurs in the shadow of Japvo. I don't remem...
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Chapter one. The Beginning arrival in Manipur books Graham Bower/ Ursula (5) Dazed, tired, bewildered, and not sure what had happened, I was decanted from the car that evening in the middle of Manipur...
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Chapter one. The Beginning European community in Imphal books Imphal Graham Bower/ Ursula A European community of less than a dozen lived in the neat Imphal cantonments. Bougainvillea sprawled over th...
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Chapter one. The Beginning Sena Kaitel, the Golden Market books Imphal Graham Bower/ Ursula Every evening in the Imphal bazaar was held the Sena Kaitel, the Golden Market. When the heat was out of the...
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Chapter one. The Beginning invitation to tour to Ukhrul with Civil Surgeon and wife books Graham Bower/ Ursula In the ordinary way I might never have gone further than (7) the valley. Life centred on ...
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Chapter one. The Beginning impressions of the hills, the Tangkhul Nagas and Kukis; Surgeon's work books Taylor/ Col. Graham Bower/ Ursula We spent the night in a mud-walled rest-house at the foot of t...
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Chapter one. The Beginning return to Ukhrul books Graham Bower/ Ursula When, ten days later, we returned to Imphal, life had changed. There is no describing the fascination of the hills. Neither heat,...
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trip to Tamenglong Chapter one. The Beginning Sub-divisions of Manipur and tribal groups books Jeffery/ Mr. Graham Bower/ Ursula There wasn't long to wait. Alexa, unable to join the Ukhrul trip, had a...
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trip to Tamenglong Chapter one. The Beginning criticisms concerning women going on tour books Graham Bower/ Ursula The Ukhrul trip had been short and over bridle-roads. This was to last three weeks, w...
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trip to Tamenglong Chapter one. The Beginning trip to the Barak River books Barak R. Graham Bower/ Ursula But Mr Jeffery ignored all pessimists. We left on the scheduled day, in the worst weather poss...
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trip to Tamenglong Chapter one. The Beginning books Graham Bower/ Ursula The weather cleared in a day or two, and, razor-back after razor-back, the ranges came out of their cloud. Where the Ukhrul sid...
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trip to Tamenglong Chapter one. The Beginning books Graham Bower/ Ursula The long ridge on which we stood here fell away in eroded knolls and hummocks. On these stood the station, its tin roofs patche...
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trip to Tamenglong Chapter one. The Beginning rafting down the Barak River books Barak R. Graham Bower/ Ursula We halted a day in Tamenglong, visiting the fort with its spike-studded glacis; and then ...
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trip to Tamenglong Chapter one. The Beginning Mr. Jeffery's views on the hill men contrasted with those of other Europeans books Graham Bower/ Ursula It was a new world, too, in another way. Jeffery h...
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trip to Tamenglong Chapter one. The Beginning books Graham Bower/ Ursula Every evening brought a new camp-site and new people crowding it, brown, slim, curious, unhurried, with a strangely unsavage co...
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trip to Tamenglong Chapter one. The Beginning books Kambiron Graham Bower/ Ursula It was the end of a dream. Already the outer world was near us, Silchar, and Imphal, where Nagas were an obscene joke,...
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trip to Tamenglong Chapter one. The Beginning return to Imphal, then to England books Graham Bower/ Ursula We returned by train up the Hill Section, which everyone in Silchar had been at pains to prai...
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Chapter two. Solo Flight photographs; encouragement to return; invitation to tour Barak area books Jeffery/ Mr. Graham Bower/ Ursula (14) Back in England that following summer three things happened wh...
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Chapter two. Solo Flight decision to learn anthropology and to film; contacts J.H. Hutton and Hodson books Hutton/ J.H. Hodson Graham Bower/ Ursula Here was my chance, and it was up to me to use it. I...
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Chapter two. Solo Flight return to India books 10.1938 Graham Bower/ Ursula Autumn brought the Munich crisis but Chamberlain flew. At the end of October I was once more eastbound. I had my list of sub...
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Chapter two. Solo Flight after Barak trip, touring alone with filming equipment books 7.1.1939-16.1.1939 Graham Bower/ Ursula The Barak trip over, I applied to the Political Agent for permission to go...
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expedition in the Tangkhul area Chapter two. Solo Flight books 10.2.1939-20.4.1939 Graham Bower/ Ursula A month later, with the first few films and notes secured and the preliminary canters safely ove...
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expedition in the Tangkhul area Chapter two. Solo Flight companions books Abung Graham Bower/ Ursula My companions were two. The first was my servant, Abung. He was a Kabui Naga; small, faithful, furr...
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expedition in the Tangkhul area Chapter two. Solo Flight Imphal to Ukhrul books Ukhrul Siruhi Mt. (Sirohi Mt.) Graham Bower/ Ursula In the drought of February, in a pillar of dust, we set out across t...
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expedition in the Tangkhul area Chapter two. Solo Flight Ukhrul to Nungbi; pottery making at Nungbi Khunao books Duncan/ Mr Nungbi Khunou (Nungbi Khunao) Graham Bower/ Ursula We halted a day in Ukhrul...
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expedition in the Tangkhul area Chapter two. Solo Flight Luikai joins the expedition books Luikai Graham Bower/ Ursula Unexpectedly that night, in the dusk by the camp-fire, we found a new retainer. H...
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expedition in the Tangkhul area Chapter two. Solo Flight the joy of exploring the hills books Graham Bower/ Ursula Then down from Nungbi we went, and away to the north, to the hills I had looked at so...
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expedition in the Tangkhul area Chapter two. Solo Flight daily routine: dispensary, photographs books Abung Graham Bower/ Ursula The day's routine was simple. With the first gleam of day-light through...
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expedition in the Tangkhul area Chapter two. Solo Flight common diseases and dispensary work books Graham Bower/ Ursula Photography was no strain. The actual dispensary work was not hard; but the roug...
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expedition in the Tangkhul area Chapter two. Solo Flight provision of hospitals in Manipur; lack of travelling dispensaries books Graham Bower/ Ursula It was not that Manipur was unprovided with facil...
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expedition in the Tangkhul area Chapter two. Solo Flight tiger reported at Luchai camp books Luchai Graham Bower/ Ursula From village to village, the stock of photographs growing, we crept on east and...
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expedition in the Tangkhul area Chapter two. Solo Flight Chingjaroi camp; three settlements at Chingjaroi; headmen books Chingjaroi Khulen Chingjaroi Khunao 17.2.1939-22.2.1939 Graham Bower/ Ursula Cl...
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expedition in the Tangkhul area Chapter two. Solo Flight halt in Chingjaroi books Graham Bower/ Ursula It was a good centre, and we halted. The March winds had begun. We came in a gale, and throughout...
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expedition in the Tangkhul area Chapter two. Solo Flight climb of Chingjui Hill books Chingjui Mt. 22.2.1939 Graham Bower/ Ursula Most of the time was spent in photography and dispensary work, clamber...
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expedition in the Tangkhul area Chapter two. Solo Flight march to Paowi; 'flu books 23.2.1939 Graham Bower/ Ursula From Chingjaroi we bore back to the south. The elders said good-bye to us under the b...
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expedition in the Tangkhul area Chapter two. Solo Flight lepers at Paowi books Paowi Graham Bower/ Ursula There were lepers here. The compounder found one at the first dispensary. He was a young man, ...
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expedition in the Tangkhul area Chapter two. Solo Flight Ukhrul to Tuinem; Tuinem weaving books 25.2.1939-27.2.1939 Graham Bower/ Ursula Then we reached Ukhrul again. I still had 'flu, but money and s...
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expedition in the Tangkhul area Chapter two. Solo Flight back to Imphal books Graham Bower/ Ursula It was almost over now. From Shongphel we marched down to the plain, the waiting lorry and Imphal; an...
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Chapter three. Second Attack leaving Imphal for another trip; new and awkward compounder books Abung 9.3.1939 Graham Bower/ Ursula (24) A week later, fortified by experience and stocked up with medici...
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Chapter three. Second Attack march to Lambui; difficulties with Luikai; on to Nungbi books Luikai 10.3.1939 Graham Bower/ Ursula The next day we marched right through to Lambui, a matter of seventeen ...
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Chapter three. Second Attack embarrasment caused by compounder books 14.3.1939 Graham Bower/ Ursula The last morning there broke warm and sunny. The light slanted in through the flimsy walls, spotting...
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Chapter three. Second Attack to Chingjaroi; rumour of murder and head-taking books Graham Bower/ Ursula Instead of following our previous route north we were moving parallel to it and one range to the...
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Chapter three. Second Attack to Paotong, then Kharasom books Abung Kharasom 16.3.1939-17.3.1939 Graham Bower/ Ursula The next stop was at the Kuki village of Paotong, where an old lady who came to get...
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Chapter three. Second Attack Chinaorang of Nungbi taken on as servant books Chinaorang Graham Bower/ Ursula At Nungbi we had collected another new follower. He was a tall Tangkhul called Chinaorang, a...
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Chapter three. Second Attack called to Chingjaroi for medical help books Chingjaroi 18.3.1939 Graham Bower/ Ursula We were to have halted at Kharasom; but at noon on our first rest-day, when the camp ...
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Chapter three. Second Attack birth complications books Graham Bower/ Ursula It was almost dark when we got there. The house stood tall and shut against a green twilight sky - green with a line of copp...
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Chapter three. Second Attack back to camp at night books Graham Bower/ Ursula The dark of the porch, with a pig snorting disturbed in its bed of chaff. The open street - cool, marvellous after the fet...
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Chapter three. Second Attack diarrhoea cases books Graham Bower/ Ursula At noon next day the compounder returned, looking haggard. The woman, he said, was better. He had given a second injection, and ...
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Chapter three. Second Attack compounder suggests he goes back to Imphal to get more drugs books Graham Bower/ Ursula We stayed on a day or two, till our patient was out of danger, and then prepared to...
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Chapter four. Black Magic visit to Jessami books Jessami 25.3.1939 Graham Bower/ Ursula (32) Our next stage on from Kharasom was to a village called Jessami, on the long tongue of Manipur which juts i...
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Chapter four. Black Magic witchcraft at Jessami books Jessami 26.3.1939 Graham Bower/ Ursula Next morning I held a lone-hand dispensary which was well-attended. At eleven o'clock I was reading in peac...
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Chapter four. Black Magic headman tries to make peace at Jessami books Jessami Graham Bower/ Ursula For the rest of the day the Tangkhuls continued in a state of alarm and I in a huffed seclusion. The...
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Chapter four. Black Magic compounder returns; back to Kharasom; smallpox in Lai-yi books Liyai (Lai-yi) Graham Bower/ Ursula We were still at Jessami when the compounder returned, which he did after a...
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Chapter four. Black Magic decide to send to Imphal for help to go to Lai-yi books Graham Bower/ Ursula The compounder and I held a hurried conference in the still half-unpacked camp. We checked up on ...
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Chapter four. Black Magic back to Chingjaroi books Graham Bower/ Ursula Our message despatched, it remained to consider our own plans. It was inadvisable to stay where we were. There was risk of infec...
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Chapter four. Black Magic woman who had had birth complications on previous visit now well books Graham Bower/ Ursula We asked for our woman patient. Oh, yes, they said, she was better. We went to cal...
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Chapter four. Black Magic Paowi to Huimi; Chinaorang ill books 7.4.1939 Graham Bower/ Ursula From our old camp at Paowi we turned westward and scrambled up and down Naga paths in wild spring weather w...
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Chapter four. Black Magic to Phungam; poor camp books 13.4.1939 Graham Bower/ Ursula Next day we climbed up through the misty forests and over the range. Chinaorang was still lame, the men had coughs ...
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Chapter four. Black Magic Phungam to Huining; to Ukhrul and back books 15.4.1939-17.4.1939 Graham Bower/ Ursula We halted next day in only slightly improved conditions and then pushed forward to Huini...
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Chapter four. Black Magic to Tuinem by bad path books Graham Bower/ Ursula There was no through road from there to Tuinem, but a complex of field-paths could be made to bring us there. At first it was...
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Chapter four. Black Magic Shongphel, then back to Imphal and England books Graham Bower/ Ursula As a final touch, the Kuki watchman at Shongphel rest-house was drunk and fought the men. The next night...
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Chapter five. Change of Course making plans to return to the Nagas, thwarted by the outbreak of war books Graham Bower/ Ursula (40) Arrived home in 1939 I at once laid plans to return in order to cont...
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Chapter five. Change of Course return to Assam, winter 1940; refusal of the Political Agent to allow tours in the hills books Graham Bower/ Ursula On a grey day three months later I sailed after all. ...
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Chapter five. Change of Course mental breakdown books Graham Bower/ Ursula I hadn't realized before that a shock of this kind could stun one physically. I remember almost nothing of the next twenty-fo...
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Chapter five. Change of Course Luikai back; arrival of the dog, Khamba books Luikai Graham Bower/ Ursula And then, in the very middle of it all, came the dog Khamba. Luikai, one of my servants, was ba...
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Chapter five. Change of Course visit to J.P. Mills in Shillong; proposal to go to North Cachar to study Nagas books Mills/ J.P. 1.1940 Graham Bower/ Ursula In January I went to Shillong to see Mr J. P...
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Chapter five. Change of Course Zemi Nagas; leaves for North Cachar books 2.1940 Graham Bower/ Ursula I had already read Soppitt's monograph on the Zemi Nagas. They were, one supposed, the same sad, sh...
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Chapter five. Change of Course arrival at Haflong books Haflong Graham Bower/ Ursula The S.D.O. met me at Haflong Hill, the railway halt, and we climbed to the town above. It was a pretty, park-like s...
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Chapter five. Change of Course Haflong area books Haflong Graham Bower/ Ursula The subdivision whose centre it was linked mountains to plateaux, the Naga Hills and Manipur to Jowai and Shillong. Haflo...
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Chapter five. Change of Course tribes of the district and their history books Kacharis Zemi Mikir Kuki <Rangkhol Kuki <Bietes Kuki <Chongsen Kuki <Khelma Kuki <Thadou Graham Bower/ Ursula The Kacharis...
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Chapter five. Change of Course land shortage books Graham Bower/ Ursula The key to both lay in shortage of land. Though the area involved was large, it was immensely steep, and only a very little of i...
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Chapter five. Change of Course 1918 Kuki rebellion and Zemi dislike of Kukis books Kuki Zemi Kacha Graham Bower/ Ursula In 1918 the Kukis rebelled. Though their revolt was primarily against the Britis...
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Chapter five. Change of Course Kacha Naga movement; Jadonang and Gaidiliu books Jadonang Gaidiliu Kambiron 1929 Graham Bower/ Ursula The Kacha Naga movement was odd and interesting. It began at Kambir...
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Chapter five. Change of Course Gaidiliu movement books Masang/ of Kepelo Gaidiliu Graham Bower/ Ursula Troops were sent out to all the three districts in which the Kacha Naga country fell - Manipur, N...
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Chapter five. Change of Course capture of Gaidiliu books Mills/ J.P. Gaidiliu Graham Bower/ Ursula She had just reached the edge of the Angami country, and there was a risk that the powerful villages ...
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Chapter five. Change of Course Gaidiliu's followers take revenge books Masang Ghumeo Dikheo Gaidiliu Graham Bower/ Ursula But it wasn't quite over yet. Her intimates had escaped the raid - Masang, Ghu...
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Chapter six. Introduction to the Zemi Zemi in Haflong Bazaar; opium; Barail Zemi books Gumtuing/ of Nenglo Masang/ of Kepelo Graham Bower/ Ursula (50) The few Zemi who hung round the bazaar were shabb...
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Chapter six. Introduction to the Zemi Haflong to Mahur, then Asalu books Graham Bower/ Ursula (51) We left Haflong at last on March 4th, tramped down a half-made road to the station, and took train up...
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Chapter six. Introduction to the Zemi description of Asalu books Asalu Graham Bower/ Ursula It was a pleasant camp in park-land, with the site of an old headquarters station on the spur beyond. A wood...
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Chapter six. Introduction to the Zemi Namkiabuing joins staff books Namkiabuing Graham Bower/ Ursula The temporary interpreter the S.D.O. had found for me in Haflong was of little use. The chance came...
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Chapter six. Introduction to the Zemi on to Laisong books Laisong 8.3.1940-9.3.1940 Graham Bower/ Ursula The road was now a rocky shelf along the face of the Barail. It climbed and climbed through tal...
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Chapter six. Introduction to the Zemi description of Laisong books Laisong Graham Bower/ Ursula Laisong was a village of perhaps eighty houses. It stood on a spur which sloped from the main range. In ...
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Chapter six. Introduction to the Zemi gathering of Zemi at Laisong; buffalo and mithan killed for a feast books Masang Laisong 10.3.1940-11.3.1940 Graham Bower/ Ursula There was to be a mass gathering...
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Chapter six. Introduction to the Zemi dance and feast at Laisong books 11.3.1940 Graham Bower/ Ursula By dusk the village hummed. After dark the drums began to thud, first singly, then more and more, ...
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Chapter seven. Reconnaissance looking for place to do fieldwork; ambivalence of Zemi books Namkia 12.3.1940 Graham Bower/ Ursula (56) The next day I parted from the S.D.O. at the village gate and set ...
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Chapter seven. Reconnaissance difference between Hangrum and Guilong books Hangrum Guilong Graham Bower/ Ursula Take, for example, Hangrum and Guilong - Hangrum in its fantastically dramatic setting o...
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Chapter seven. Reconnaissance Guilong; Gaidiliu's reincarnation books Gaidiliu Dikheo Guilong 24.3.1940-25.3.1940 Graham Bower/ Ursula There was no stating of a request, no calm discussion. Down the i...
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Chapter seven. Reconnaissance S.D.O. agrees to a year's stay to study the Zemi; Laisong chosen as centre books Ramgakpa/ of Gobin Degalang Graham Bower/ Ursula Next morning, thank goodness, we left. T...
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Chapter seven. Reconnaissance construction of camp at Laisong books Graham Bower/ Ursula At Laisong the camp on the eyrie was under construction. Workmen swarmed on the skeleton of the big house. From...
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Chapter seven. Reconnaissance strong wind and hail storm books Graham Bower/ Ursula I woke. The shuttered room was so dark I looked at my watch. It was half-past one - I'd slept for less than an hour....
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Chapter seven. Reconnaissance devastation caused by hail storm books Ramgakpa Graham Bower/ Ursula It was at least, as I saw when I got outside, still standing. A crowing and hysterical cook met me ju...
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Chapter seven. Reconnaissance bout of fever books Graham Bower/ Ursula However, hailstorms or no, the films I had planned to use from November onwards were sitting untouched in Haflong. It was time to...
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Chapter seven. Reconnaissance settling in Laisong; Luikai ill; fear of another Zemi rising forces return to Haflong books Graham Bower/ Ursula A fortnight later we moved in at Laisong on permanent occ...
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Chapter eight. Exile. visit to the plateau west of Haflong; decayed Zemi culture books Graham Bower/ Ursula (63) Quite the most interesting things on the plateau - which was rolling, shadeless and unb...
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