The Nagas

Chapter seven. Reconnaissance construction of camp at Laisong books Graham Bower/ Ursula At Laisong the camp on the eyrie was under construction. Workmen swarmed on the skeleton of the big house. From...
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Chapter seven. Reconnaissance strong wind and hail storm books Graham Bower/ Ursula I woke. The shuttered room was so dark I looked at my watch. It was half-past one - I'd slept for less than an hour....
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Chapter seven. Reconnaissance devastation caused by hail storm books Ramgakpa Graham Bower/ Ursula It was at least, as I saw when I got outside, still standing. A crowing and hysterical cook met me ju...
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Chapter seven. Reconnaissance bout of fever books Graham Bower/ Ursula However, hailstorms or no, the films I had planned to use from November onwards were sitting untouched in Haflong. It was time to...
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Chapter seven. Reconnaissance settling in Laisong; Luikai ill; fear of another Zemi rising forces return to Haflong books Graham Bower/ Ursula A fortnight later we moved in at Laisong on permanent occ...
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Chapter eight. Exile. visit to the plateau west of Haflong; decayed Zemi culture books Graham Bower/ Ursula (63) Quite the most interesting things on the plateau - which was rolling, shadeless and unb...
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Chapter eight. Exile. urn-fields books Bolosan Graham Bower/ Ursula The urns, however, were worth the heat. At the Main urn-field, outside the Naga hamlet of Bolosan, several hundred of them stood on ...
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Chapter eight. Exile. strain of touring; heat; Namkia unbends books Namkia Graham Bower/ Ursula Touring the plateau was much better than sitting in Haflong, but it was still no picnic. The heat was ki...
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Chapter eight. Exile. Namkia's character books Namkia Graham Bower/ Ursula His was an unusual character. A pagan humorist, a Zemi to the backbone, with all the faults and virtues of his tribe and race...
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Chapter eight. Exile. history of Namkia's family books Namkia Gareolowa Impoi Asalu Graham Bower/ Ursula His family were of Kabui origin. Migrating northward to Hangrum heaven knows how many generatio...
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Chapter eight. Exile. return to Haflong; woman fanatic arrested at Ngaulong books Ngaulong 7.1940 Graham Bower/ Ursula At the end of July we returned to Haflong and found out what had been happening i...
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Chapter eight. Exile. temporary settlement in Asalu; Luikai dismissed books Luikai Chinaorang Graham Bower/ Ursula The S.D.O., however, thought Laisong too far away in case of sudden trouble, so for t...
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Chapter eight. Exile. tigers books Graham Bower/ Ursula Chinaorang stayed on some weeks. He mixed well with the Zemi, and never minded being ragged, as Luikai had done. It was a casual jape on him - N...
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Chapter eight. Exile. Namkia's practical joke books Namkia Graham Bower/ Ursula On the chosen evening he complained of fever and retired early to the spare hut. As soon as the cook and the others had ...
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Chapter eight. Exile. Chinaorang leaves; were-tigers books Chinaorang Graham Bower/ Ursula Soon after this incident (though not because of it) Chinaorang too went home, and except for the cook the sta...
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Chapter eight. Exile. chaos in girl's dormitory caused by fear of a tiger books Ramgakpa Graham Bower/ Ursula Ramgakpa, as it happened, was in the village when the kill occurred. The late evening is t...
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Chapter eight. Exile. Zemi reaction to the death of a child books Haichangnang Namkia Graham Bower/ Ursula (69) About this time, just before we went back to Laisong, there was an addition to the staff...
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Chapter nine. First-Fruits Festival return to Laisong; water supply; garden books Samrangba 8.1940 Graham Bower/ Ursula (71) By the end of August everything was still quiet, and we were allowed back t...
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Chapter nine. First-Fruits Festival expense of living in Laisong; an anachic community books Zhekungba Ramzimba Samrangba Graham Bower/ Ursula It was soon clear that life at Laisong would be no bed of...
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Chapter nine. First-Fruits Festival Laisong's hostility due to misunderstanding with the Government books Graham Bower/ Ursula And now that I was established and in constant touch with the Zemi, the p...
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Chapter nine. First-Fruits Festival rice harvest festival - Pokpatngi - at Hegokuloa books Hegokulwa (Hegokuloa) Graham Bower/ Ursula It was autumn now, and the first of the great harvest festivals ha...
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Chapter nine. First-Fruits Festival buffalo hunt; padded horns books Graham Bower/ Ursula The mithan-hunt was to be held first thing next morning. At dusk the young men gathered to pad the horns. The ...
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Chapter nine. First-Fruits Festival buffalo stampede books Graham Bower/ Ursula The headman now came up and asked us to go along for a drink. We perched on three-inch stools in his firelit inner room ...
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Chapter nine. First-Fruits Festival retreat to the village; Namkia's description of catching the bull; Hegokuloa's lack of sportsmanship books Namkia Paodekumba Ramgakpa Graham Bower/ Ursula He had tr...
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Chapter nine. First-Fruits Festival second buffalo hunt; filming books Graham Bower/ Ursula The animal was tied up, as the bull had been, on the flat space in front of the upper morung. Haichangnang a...
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Chapter nine. First-Fruits Festival dispensary, then return to Laisong books Graham Bower/ Ursula We spent the afternoon in a sleep of exhaustion. There was a dispensary in the evening to patch up the...
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Chapter ten. The Zemi Zemi tribal polity; the 'kadepeo' books Graham Bower/ Ursula (79) Despite their closeness to the railway and the fact that they had been long administered, the Zemis' tribal poli...
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Chapter ten. The Zemi village government and settlement of disputes books Graham Bower/ Ursula Each community was ruled by a village council, with the 'kadepeo' at its head. He was, in effect, its pre...
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Chapter ten. The Zemi social organization books Graham Bower/ Ursula (81) You joined your 'kienga,' willy-nilly, the day you were born. A detachment from one morung or the other came to the house to c...
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Chapter ten. The Zemi girls' dormitories books Graham Bower/ Ursula At the age of eight or so boys and girls went out to sleep at night in their proper dormitories. It was contrary to all Zemi notions...
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Chapter ten. The Zemi the morung books Graham Bower/ Ursula On boys the hold of the morung was far deeper. Unlike the girls, they spent the whole of their time there; they came home only for meals, an...
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Chapter ten. The Zemi age progression in the morung; village guard books kienga Graham Bower/ Ursula Within the 'kienga,' the small boys fagged for the bucks, keeping the morung clean, washing clothes...
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Chapter ten. The Zemi morung life after marriage books Graham Bower/ Ursula The elders maintained strict discipline, and loyalty to the 'kienga' was strong. 'Rahangmi' were supposed, too, under the tu...
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Chapter ten. The Zemi communal activities by morung groups books Graham Bower/ Ursula At any time the 'kienga' could act as a corporate body. As such, they organized dances, made and maintained the vi...
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Chapter ten. The Zemi women's role in social life books Graham Bower/ Ursula In all public activities, it may be noted, it was the men who figured. Girls made only their brief and formal appearances w...
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Chapter ten. The Zemi male and female roles books Graham Bower/ Ursula That this was so was partly, but not wholly, for economic reasons. To men fell the heavier and more arduous work, but not that wh...
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Chapter ten. The Zemi influence of women books Graham Bower/ Ursula Women, then, were a very strong folk. The influence they wielded, aside from that which affection and sentiment would in any case ha...
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Chapter eleven. The Affair of Degalang elopement books Dinekamba Rangalang Degalang 10.1940 Graham Bower/ Ursula (87) At half-past ten on a bright October morning Degalang the dog-boy eloped with Dine...
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Chapter eleven. The Affair of Degalang love affair; Laisong youths resent intrusion of strange boy; elopement to Impoi books Degalang Rangalang Graham Bower/ Ursula He was right, as it happened; it wa...
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Chapter eleven. The Affair of Degalang taboo on marriage during harvest; marriage postponed by elders books Graham Bower/ Ursula At any other season of the year they would have won; their 'fait accomp...
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Chapter eleven. The Affair of Degalang Rangalang refuses to agree to marriage; Namkia gets his reluctant agreement books Rangalang Degalang Namkia Graham Bower/ Ursula He had left us by then. I had my...
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Chapter eleven. The Affair of Degalang negotiations over marriage price books Graham Bower/ Ursula He was lost. Never relaxing pressure, Namkia fought him back point by point and pig by pig through ev...
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Chapter eleven. The Affair of Degalang girl expelled from Impoi a year later because of thieving books Rangalang Dinekamba Degalang Impoi 1941 Graham Bower/ Ursula A year later, he and I came into the...
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Chapter twelve. Symphony on Two Floors visit to Calcutta with Namkia books Namkia 10.1940 Graham Bower/ Ursula (93) At the end of the same October which saw the elopement I went to Calcutta for a ten ...
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Chapter twelve. Symphony on Two Floors Namkia's exploits books Namkia Graham Bower/ Ursula At Amingaon Namkia made a friend. As we waited for the train to start, I saw him standing in the doorway of t...
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Chapter twelve. Symphony on Two Floors Namkia in Calcutta books Namkia Graham Bower/ Ursula Calcutta's swarming crowds and endless streets frightened the life out of him. He could find his way about t...
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Chapter twelve. Symphony on Two Floors sequel books Namkia 1942 Graham Bower/ Ursula Two years later in Shillong, an officer, seeing Namkia and Haichangnang waiting outside on the hotel drive, pointed...
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Chapter thirteen. Hgangi the Christmas mithan books Paodekumba 12.1940 Graham Bower/ Ursula (98) I found myself faced that winter with a lone Christmas at Laisong. The Zemi New Year Feast of Hgangi fe...
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Chapter thirteen. Hgangi New Year feast of Hgangi books 1.1941 Graham Bower/ Ursula Hgangi began a few days later. This great feast marks the turn of the year. It opens with the parting of the dead fr...
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Chapter thirteen. Hgangi stone dragging books Graham Bower/ Ursula The week before the feast was almost entirely given up to bringing in large slabs of stone to finish the graves of the year's dead. I...
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Chapter thirteen. Hgangi accidents while stone-dragging books Graham Bower/ Ursula (100) The work is not without danger. Close to the bridle-road between Asalu and Impoi, where the track curves round ...
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Chapter thirteen. Hgangi carrying the stone into Laisong; a near accident books Laisong Graham Bower/ Ursula Laisong's biggest stone for that year stood about three-quarters of a mile from the village...
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Chapter thirteen. Hgangi the 'Hkakngi'- parting of the dead from the living books Graham Bower/ Ursula A day or two later, when the graves were completed, came Hkakngi, the parting of the dead from th...
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Chapter thirteen. Hgangi pig chase books Paodekumba Graham Bower/ Ursula A day or two later the pigs destined to provide the feast were turned loose and caught in much the same way as the Pokpat mitha...
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Chapter thirteen. Hgangi quarrells and drunkeness books Namkia Paodekumba Graham Bower/ Ursula His long absence, and the fact that the others all came back again drunk, upset from the start the never-...
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Chapter thirteen. Hgangi fight between morungs books Graham Bower/ Ursula At ten o'clock there was a sudden confusion which brought us all out running. There on the slope between our water (106) point...
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Chapter thirteen. Hgangi drunkeness books Graham Bower/ Ursula By five o'clock that afternoon Namkia was in the village and fighting drunk, and I was praying he would stay there. The cook's strained n...
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Chapter fourteen. Things That Go Bump in the Night. ghosts and poltergeists books 1.1941 Graham Bower/ Ursula Like most New Year resolutions, it was never kept. (107) The parting of the Zemi dead from...
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Chapter fourteen. Things That Go Bump in the Night. poltergeist in camp books Haichangnang Hozekiemba Graham Bower/ Ursula It began when Haichangnang complained of disturbances in his quarter, which w...
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Chapter fourteen. Things That Go Bump in the Night. poltergeist in the cookhouse books Graham Bower/ Ursula Whatever it was had, in the interval, moved several stages (108) up the lines. Almost everyo...
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Chapter fourteen. Things That Go Bump in the Night. poltergeist in the bungalow books Graham Bower/ Ursula The next appearance in the bungalow was sheer farce, and rather vulgar at that. (Phenomena, b...
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Chapter fourteen. Things That Go Bump in the Night. rats or poltergeist books Graham Bower/ Ursula A few nights later, when Namkia and I, after an uneventful evening, had retired, I to my camp cot, he...
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Chapter fourteen. Things That Go Bump in the Night. phantom voices; poltergeist leaves books Graham Bower/ Ursula The fifth and last visitation was, perhaps, the oddest. The cook and the rest of the s...
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Chapter fourteen. Things That Go Bump in the Night. Zemi explanation for haunting; burial ground for suicides and bad deaths books Graham Bower/ Ursula The Nagas' own theory was that the spur was haun...
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Chapter fourteen. Things That Go Bump in the Night. haunted rest-house at Hangrum books Hangrum Graham Bower/ Ursula There was a parallel in another Zemi poltergeist, that haunting, or reputed to haun...
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Chapter fourteen. Things That Go Bump in the Night. moving lights books Graham Bower/ Ursula We ourselves never saw any of the moving lights on the spur, but there was one instance where the villagers...
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Chapter fourteen. Things That Go Bump in the Night. thief mistaken for a devil books Graham Bower/ Ursula Another apparition was certainly earthly. I was away, (114) Hozekiemba was in charge of the ca...
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Chapter fourteen. Things That Go Bump in the Night. death cry books Graham Bower/ Ursula One other happening is perhaps worth mention, though still without explanation offered. It occurred some years ...
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Chapter fifteen. Village Justice. Samrangba's dismissal books Samrangba Graham Bower/ Ursula (115) I have said that the Zemi virtually administered themselves. Take, now, the case of Samrangba, once m...
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Chapter fifteen. Village Justice. attempted rape books Samrangba Graham Bower/ Ursula The tale takes up again in the early morning. It was not yet dawn, but the sky had begun to grey, and objects - ho...
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Chapter fifteen. Village Justice. Samrangba accused books Samrangba Graham Bower/ Ursula After the brief commotion, the village was still. But, in the girl's house, a hastily-summoned meeting of her m...
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Chapter fifteen. Village Justice. kinsmen seek revenge books Sangrangba Hozekiemba Namkia Graham Bower/ Ursula The morning sun came clear and cold into the bungalow bedroom. The sun wasn't over the Ne...
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Chapter fifteen. Village Justice. attempt to storm family house books Ningchangba Samrangba Graham Bower/ Ursula He reached it only a little ahead of the hunt. (That was when they began to yell, when ...
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Chapter fifteen. Village Justice. sanctuary books Samrangba Graham Bower/ Ursula Meantime, in his protector's house, Samrangba was in the inner room. A ceremonial meal was cooked and served to him, as...
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Chapter fifteen. Village Justice. headmen banish Samrangba for two years to prevent blood feud books Samrangba Ningchangba Kepelo Graham Bower/ Ursula At all costs bloodshed, and the resulting blood-f...
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the Siemi, a former civilization Chapter sixteen. The Lost Folk books Graham Bower/ Ursula (121) All through the Barail area, tucked away behind ridges, on precipitous spurs, at the heads of hidden ra...
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the Siemi, a former civilization Chapter sixteen. The Lost Folk abandoned village sites books Graham Bower/ Ursula Small settlements, recognizable by their house-platforms, which, sometimes stone-face...
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the Siemi, a former civilization Chapter sixteen. The Lost Folk 'gareo' bamboo books Graham Bower/ Ursula There was one in the Jiri valley, on a spur two miles to the south-east of Nenglo village, whe...
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the Siemi, a former civilization Chapter sixteen. The Lost Folk 'deo-moni' beads books Graham Bower/ Ursula (122) The large stone had been tilted up by a tree which grew, a good yard thick, almost fro...
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the Siemi, a former civilization Chapter sixteen. The Lost Folk pre-Naga funerary monuments at Bolosan books Bolosan Graham Bower/ Ursula Now it is worth considering these two stories in connection wi...
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the Siemi, a former civilization Chapter sixteen. The Lost Folk difficulty in purchasing 'deo-moni' beads books Graham Bower/ Ursula To return again to the question of ancient beads. The stories of th...
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the Siemi, a former civilization Chapter sixteen. The Lost Folk supposed Siemi remains at Hange books Hange Graham Bower/ Ursula About a quarter-mile east of Hange village, on one of those spurs which...
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the Siemi, a former civilization Chapter sixteen. The Lost Folk traditions of intermarriage between Siemi and Zemi; negrito types books Hange Asalu Graham Bower/ Ursula Hange had, too, an interesting ...
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the Siemi, a former civilization Chapter sixteen. The Lost Folk remains at Asalu books Asalu Graham Bower/ Ursula The Asalu sites, the largest and most remarkable in the district, lay almost due south...
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the Siemi, a former civilization Chapter sixteen. The Lost Folk legend about the Siemi books Kachari Graham Bower/ Ursula Now for the Naga legend. The Siemi were, it is said, an uncanny race - magicia...
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the Siemi, a former civilization Chapter sixteen. The Lost Folk search for the cave, the last retreat of the Siemi books Perry Graham Bower/ Ursula Naturally, ever since the area had been administered...
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Chapter seventeen. Fire, Fire! danger of fire books Graham Bower/ Ursula (130) The camp's position on an open spur, with a grassy cliff below it and an open valley in front, had certain very obvious a...
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Chapter seventeen. Fire, Fire! trying to make a firebelt nearly causes camp to burn down books Laisong Graham Bower/ Ursula The obvious course, on that, was to cut a firebelt. The trouble was the clif...
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Chapter seventeen. Fire, Fire! fighting the fire books Graham Bower/ Ursula " The house - the house ! " Namkia was shouting. I could hardly hear him through the bellow of the flames. " There isn't a c...
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Chapter eighteen. The First Rains monsoon books Graham Bower/ Ursula (135) It began to rain that year, 1941, on May 7th. From that day till the first week in September there was hardly a break at all....
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Chapter eighteen. The First Rains collecting folk tales books Asa Munsarung Namkia Graham Bower/ Ursula I turned to recording folk-lore, for which there had hardly been the time before. Namkia himself...
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Chapter eighteen. The First Rains illness; dispensary at Laisong books Laisong Graham Bower/ Ursula Since the Rains are always the sickly season, there was a great deal else to do besides taking notes...
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Chapter eighteen. The First Rains wrenched knee-cap; divination by ginger books Hozekiemba Graham Bower/ Ursula We were weeding the spinach, Hozekiemba and I, and when we reached the end and I straigh...
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Chapter eighteen. The First Rains ritual sacrifice books Graham Bower/ Ursula Namkia went off at once to fetch a suitable bird and call the village priest. He found the bird, but the priest was not av...
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Chapter nineteen. Dogs, Snakes and Leopards pet dogs books Graham Bower/ Ursula (139) The animal kingdom was always well represented in life at the camp. First of all, of course, there was my dog Kham...
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Chapter nineteen. Dogs, Snakes and Leopards snakes books Graham Bower/ Ursula Considering that we lived in a semi-tropical climate we were really very fortunate with snakes. There were, it is true, tw...
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Chapter nineteen. Dogs, Snakes and Leopards myths concerning pythons books Bangklawong Zuingpeo/ of Impoi Graham Bower/ Ursula Once upon a time, in the very beginning, the great spirit Bangklawong - w...
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Chapter nineteen. Dogs, Snakes and Leopards dangerous snakes books Graham Bower/ Ursula Occasional snakes, often but not invariably harmless, used to fall in the hot weather out of the bungalow rafter...
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Chapter nineteen. Dogs, Snakes and Leopards leopards books Ramgakpa Hozekiemba Graham Bower/ Ursula (142) Of all our local animals, far and away the most notable was the leopard. What happened when it...
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Chapter twenty. The Land and the People the Impoi morungs books Impoi Graham Bower/ Ursula (147) Although I lived at Laisong, most of my staff and friends came from the Asalu group. This was dwindling...
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