The Nagas

welcome to guest house diaries Konyak Mon 25.8.1970 Furer-Haimendorf 12.8.1970-9.9.1970 private collection We drove to the bungalow of the Additional Deputy Commission, M.T.C.K. Lhota, a Naga with a p...
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wife of Mon Ang gives birth, so village taboo and visit postponed diaries Konyak Mon 25.8.1970 Furer-Haimendorf 12.8.1970-9.9.1970 private collection (52) Mon, 26th August Today I should have gone to ...
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drive to Chui diaries Konyak Chi (Chui) 26.8.1970 Furer-Haimendorf 12.8.1970-9.9.1970 private collection Instead we went to Chui, accompanied by an English-speaking young man of Chui, who is vice-chai...
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headhunters from Totok diaries Konyak Chi (Chui) Totok 26.8.1970 Furer-Haimendorf 12.8.1970-9.9.1970 private collection We stopped when overtaking a colourful group of men. They were from Totok. Many ...
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corpse platforms outside Chui diaries Konyak Chi (Chui) 26.8.1970 Furer-Haimendorf 12.8.1970-9.9.1970 private collection On the steep ascent to Chui, one of the jeeps broke down and we continued on fo...
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morung and large menhir diaries Konyak Chi (Chui) 26.8.1970 Furer-Haimendorf 12.8.1970-9.9.1970 private collection Above the village gate was one of the morungs, - of the type with the eaves coming do...
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very little changed diaries Konyak Chi (Chui) 26.8.1970 Furer-Haimendorf 12.8.1970-9.9.1970 private collection The houses of Chui are exactly of Wakching type, - and not the type I know from Longkhai ...
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the Ang's house with massive stone seat diaries Konyak Chi (Chui) 26.8.1970 Furer-Haimendorf 12.8.1970-9.9.1970 private collection Finally we came to the house of the Ang, an enormous building, - bigg...
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skull racks diaries Konyak Chi (Chui) 26.8.1970 Furer-Haimendorf 12.8.1970-9.9.1970 private collection Under the eaves, tied against the wall or resting (53) on shelves are innumerable trophies. To th...
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welcomed by Ang with headhunter's tattoo diaries Konyak Chi (Chui) 26.8.1970 Furer-Haimendorf 12.8.1970-9.9.1970 private collection We were greeted by the Ang, a slim dignified figure wearing a tight ...
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inside the morung , old and new ornaments diaries Konyak Chi (Chui) 26.8.1970 Furer-Haimendorf 12.8.1970-9.9.1970 private collection The Ang invited us into the huge front hall of his house. At the ba...
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Ang on the role of Angs and their power diaries Konyak Chi (Chui) 26.8.1970 Furer-Haimendorf 12.8.1970-9.9.1970 private collection The Ang did not speak much Assamese, but was voluable and articulate ...
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Ang morung being repaired with iron sheets diaries Konyak Chi (Chui) 26.8.1970 Furer-Haimendorf 12.8.1970-9.9.1970 private collection Opposite the Ang's house is the Ang morung. It is now being repair...
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men and women coming back from the fields with baskets of rice diaries Konyak Chi (Chui) 26.8.1970 Furer-Haimendorf 12.8.1970-9.9.1970 private collection (54) On the way back I took some shots of film...
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a party for Haimendorf diaries Konyak Chi (Chui) 26.8.1970 Furer-Haimendorf 12.8.1970-9.9.1970 private collection Tonight there was a party given in my honour by Colonel L.B. Hermon of Central Governm...
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visit to Shangnyu diaries Konyak Sangnyu (Shangnyu) 27.8.1970 Furer-Haimendorf 12.8.1970-9.9.1970 private collection Mon, 27th August Today we went to Shangnyu (or Hangyu), a village ruled by a Great ...
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road through rice fields diaries Konyak Sangnyu (Shangnyu) 27.8.1970 Furer-Haimendorf 12.8.1970-9.9.1970 private collection We took the road past Mon and then branched off in the village of Lempungo. ...
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girls wearing necklaces in rice fields diaries Konyak Sangnyu (Shangnyu) 27.8.1970 Furer-Haimendorf 12.8.1970-9.9.1970 private collection Among rice-fields we ran into groups of young girls wearing li...
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approach to the village , set among trees diaries Konyak Sangnyu (Shangnyu) 27.8.1970 Furer-Haimendorf 12.8.1970-9.9.1970 private collection The approach to Shangnyu is through groves of palm-trees gr...
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massive house of Ang diaries Konyak Sangnyu (Shangnyu) 27.8.1970 Furer-Haimendorf 12.8.1970-9.9.1970 private collection We went first to the Ang's house. Next Previous
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huge wooden carving on Ang's house diaries Konyak Sangnyu (Shangnyu) 27.8.1970 Furer-Haimendorf 12.8.1970-9.9.1970 private collection The most outstanding feature of the Ang's house however is an enor...
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the carving on Ang's house , with sexual and other motifs diaries Konyak Sangnyu (Shangnyu) 27.8.1970 Furer-Haimendorf 12.8.1970-9.9.1970 private collection I took a photograph of the carving. It cons...
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Ang in fantastic dress of green shorts diaries Konyak Sangnyu (Shangnyu) 27.8.1970 Furer-Haimendorf 12.8.1970-9.9.1970 private collection The Ang was attired in fantastic dress consisting of a pair of...
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clans ; almost identical to Wanchus diaries Konyak Sangnyu (Shangnyu) 27.8.1970 Furer-Haimendorf 12.8.1970-9.9.1970 private collection The population consists of three Ang clans and a number of Ben cl...
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statues in front of grave house diaries Konyak Sangnyu (Shangnyu) 27.8.1970 Furer-Haimendorf 12.8.1970-9.9.1970 private collection In front of the Ang's house are two grave houses, each containing sta...
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morung with small selection of skulls diaries Konyak Sangnyu (Shangnyu) 27.8.1970 Furer-Haimendorf 12.8.1970-9.9.1970 private collection We went to see also one morung, which has a small collection of...
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a fallen tree blocks road diaries Konyak Sangnyu (Shangnyu) 27.8.1970 Furer-Haimendorf 12.8.1970-9.9.1970 private collection On our way back we were held up by a fallen tree. (56) However with the hel...
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little apparent change diaries Konyak Sangnyu (Shangnyu) 27.8.1970 Furer-Haimendorf 12.8.1970-9.9.1970 private collection In the villages of the Shangnyu one feels that the past 30 years have changed ...
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strange sensation of return to Wakching diaries Konyak Wakching 28.8.1970 Furer-Haimendorf 12.8.1970-9.9.1970 private collection Wakching, 28th August After about 34 years and 2 months I have returned...
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along the road diaries Konyak 28.8.1970 Furer-Haimendorf 12.8.1970-9.9.1970 private collection After a rainy and misty morning we started once again in three jeeps following a good road which passes b...
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stone believed to be the seat of Ahom king diaries Konyak Tanhai 28.8.1970 Furer-Haimendorf 12.8.1970-9.9.1970 private collection Near Tanhai we stopped to look at the stone believed to have been the ...
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new buildings in Wakching , but same bungalow diaries Konyak Wakching 28.8.1970 Furer-Haimendorf 12.8.1970-9.9.1970 private collection Passing Shiong land we finally approached Wakching and my heart w...
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brother of former chowkidar diaries Konyak Wakching 28.8.1970 Furer-Haimendorf 12.8.1970-9.9.1970 private collection We had not been expected, but the bungalow was soon opened. The brother of the late...
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climbing up to Wakching diaries Konyak Wakching 28.8.1970 Furer-Haimendorf 12.8.1970-9.9.1970 private collection After a cup of coffee we set out for the village. The path down to the saddle is now li...
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morung dilapidated and some more houses diaries Konyak Wakching 28.8.1970 Furer-Haimendorf 12.8.1970-9.9.1970 private collection Arrived on top, the village looked a little different. Houses seem to h...
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houses and people little changed diaries Shankok Konyak Wakching 28.8.1970 Furer-Haimendorf 12.8.1970-9.9.1970 private collection But as I moved through the street leading to Shankok's house nothing s...
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visit to Shankok's house diaries Shankok Shoupa Konyak Wakching 28.8.1970 Furer-Haimendorf 12.8.1970-9.9.1970 private collection As we came to the old house of Shankok, his son Shoupa came out and gre...
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old people amazed to see anthropologist ; memories diaries Konyak Wakching 28.8.1970 Furer-Haimendorf 12.8.1970-9.9.1970 private collection The old men could hardly believe their eyes, and kept on rep...
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other houses and morung diaries Angban morung Konyak Wakching 28.8.1970 Furer-Haimendorf 12.8.1970-9.9.1970 private collection We then went to see other parts of the village. The Angban morung, recent...
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change and continuity in morungs diaries Bala morung Balang morung Konyak Wakching 28.8.1970 Furer-Haimendorf 12.8.1970-9.9.1970 private collection Both Bala and Balang had burnt down completely and t...
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warm and moving welcome from Shankok's sister Lipung diaries Shankok Lipung Konyak Wakching 28.8.1970 Furer-Haimendorf 12.8.1970-9.9.1970 private collection Our next call was at the house of Shankok's...
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disagreement as to whether things had improved since last visit diaries Konyak Wakching 28.8.1970 Furer-Haimendorf 12.8.1970-9.9.1970 private collection But when I asked in various houses whether thin...
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visit to another of Shankok's sisters , Meniu diaries Shankok Meniu Konyak Wakching 28.8.1970 Furer-Haimendorf 12.8.1970-9.9.1970 private collection Later we went to Shankok's younger sister Meniu and...
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visit to the formerly beautiful girl Henlong diaries Henlong Konyak Wakching 28.8.1970 Furer-Haimendorf 12.8.1970-9.9.1970 private collection Finally I went to the house of Henlong and found her sifti...
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comments on anthropologist diaries Konyak Wakching 28.8.1970 Furer-Haimendorf 12.8.1970-9.9.1970 private collection Another old lady wondered how I had kept my teeth, - apparently rare among the older...
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corruption by outsiders diaries Konyak Wakching 28.8.1970 Furer-Haimendorf 12.8.1970-9.9.1970 private collection On the way back we called in at the house of a man who has made good use of modern deve...
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a nice day , down to rice fields past the water pipes diaries Shoupa Konyak Wakching 29.8.1970 Furer-Haimendorf 12.8.1970-9.9.1970 private collection (61) Wakching, 29th August Today I was lucky with ...
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fenced property diaries Konyak Wakching 29.8.1970 Furer-Haimendorf 12.8.1970-9.9.1970 private collection As we descended further through high forest we found the path lined with flimsy bamboo fencing....
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shorter fallow period , cut by half , denuded fields diaries Konyak Wakching 29.8.1970 Furer-Haimendorf 12.8.1970-9.9.1970 private collection At the lower edge of the forest is a rest shed and a high ...
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people carrying baskets diaries Konyak Wakching 29.8.1970 Furer-Haimendorf 12.8.1970-9.9.1970 private collection While behind us large numbers of men, women and girls were going down to the fields wit...
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choice of area to be cleared diaries Konyak Wakching 29.8.1970 Furer-Haimendorf 12.8.1970-9.9.1970 private collection The choice of the area to be cleared is still being made by the village council. N...
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people harvesting rice diaries Shoupa Bala morung Konyak Wakching 29.8.1970 Furer-Haimendorf 12.8.1970-9.9.1970 private collection (62) Two or three fields below this rest place we saw large numbers o...
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harvesting rice in lines diaries Konyak Wakching 29.8.1970 Furer-Haimendorf 12.8.1970-9.9.1970 private collection The centre of the activities was the threshing hut with its accompanying shelters. Nex...
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threshing rice in the huts diaries Konyak Wakching 29.8.1970 Furer-Haimendorf 12.8.1970-9.9.1970 private collection The small boys picked up the sheaves and rushed with them to the threshing hut. Ther...
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hard communal work with enthusiasm diaries Shoupa Konyak Wakching 29.8.1970 Furer-Haimendorf 12.8.1970-9.9.1970 private collection There was an atmosphere of excitement and though the workers were cov...
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returns and yields of rice ; borrowing and interest diaries Konyak Wakching 29.8.1970 Furer-Haimendorf 12.8.1970-9.9.1970 private collection Shoupa expected a yield of over 100 baskets from this one f...
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a meal in the fields diaries Konyak Wakching 29.8.1970 Furer-Haimendorf 12.8.1970-9.9.1970 private collection At about 3 pm nearly the whole field was reaped and the first loads of rice were carried t...
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special rice diaries Konyak Wakching 29.8.1970 Furer-Haimendorf 12.8.1970-9.9.1970 private collection We left when most of the reaping was completed. At the very end a plot with a special variety of w...
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carrying back the rice diaries Konyak Wakching 29.8.1970 Furer-Haimendorf 12.8.1970-9.9.1970 private collection On the way back we and many of the people carrying back loads of rice were caught in a t...
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mist and rain , talk of a dance diaries Konyak Wakching 30.8.1970 Furer-Haimendorf 12.8.1970-9.9.1970 private collection (64) Wakching, 30th August All last night it rained and in the morning there wa...
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Sunday; people gathered in the village diaries Konyak Wakching 30.8.1970 Furer-Haimendorf 12.8.1970-9.9.1970 private collection Nevertheless we went to the village and found many more people there tha...
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the fortunes of various households diaries Chinyung Shankok Thepong morung Shoupa Konyak Wakching 30.8.1970 Furer-Haimendorf 12.8.1970-9.9.1970 private collection First we were entertained by Chinyung...
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dressing up in ceremonial clothes diaries Konyak Wakching 30.8.1970 Furer-Haimendorf 12.8.1970-9.9.1970 private collection Later I was asked to photograph various members of the family and this led to...
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domestic life little changed , but western goods diaries Shoupa Konyak Wakching 30.8.1970 Furer-Haimendorf 12.8.1970-9.9.1970 private collection In the wealthier households there is certainly addition...
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rice-husker now used diaries Konyak Wakching 30.8.1970 Furer-Haimendorf 12.8.1970-9.9.1970 private collection A rice-husker similar to a handmill is found in some houses and this eases the way of husk...
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visit to high school at Wakching diaries Konyak Wakching 31.8.1970 Furer-Haimendorf 12.8.1970-9.9.1970 private collection (65) Wakching, 31st August This morning we went to the High School below Wakch...
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address to students diaries Konyak Wakching 31.8.1970 Furer-Haimendorf 12.8.1970-9.9.1970 private collection Unexpectedly I was asked to address the students. I did as best as I could telling them to ...
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little change in Shiong village diaries Konyak Shiong 31.8.1970 Furer-Haimendorf 12.8.1970-9.9.1970 private collection From the school we drove to Shiong. The village does not look very different from...
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house of late translator Ahon diaries Ahon/ of Shiong Konyak Shiong 31.8.1970 Furer-Haimendorf 12.8.1970-9.9.1970 private collection We went to the house of the late Dobashi Ahon. In front is a memori...
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opium smoking old man and house with modern goods diaries Ahon/ of Shiong Henphong/ of Shiong Chinwang/ of Shiong Konyak Shiong 31.8.1970 Furer-Haimendorf 12.8.1970-9.9.1970 private collection We were...
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reminiscences of time in the Naga underground diaries Henphong/ of Shiong Konyak Shiong 31.8.1970 Furer-Haimendorf 12.8.1970-9.9.1970 private collection We were offered tea, and rice-beer. Later also ...
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a less traditional village than Wakching diaries Konyak Shiong 31.8.1970 Furer-Haimendorf 12.8.1970-9.9.1970 private collection Shiong is much less traditional than Wakching. Only older women wear the...
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antagonisms between Chui and Wakching diaries Konyak Shiong 31.8.1970 Furer-Haimendorf 12.8.1970-9.9.1970 private collection Though Henphong spoke rather disparagingly about Angs in general, Shiong se...
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embarrassing gifts diaries Konyak Shiong 31.8.1970 Furer-Haimendorf 12.8.1970-9.9.1970 private collection I was somewhat embarrassed by the gift of a spear and a cloth, the latter woven by Henphong's ...
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Christianity ended rites ; head-hunting tattoos as result of 1937 expedition diaries Konyak Shiong 31.8.1970 Furer-Haimendorf 12.8.1970-9.9.1970 private collection Shiong is totally Christian and no m...
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leave village diaries Konyak Shiong 31.8.1970 Furer-Haimendorf 12.8.1970-9.9.1970 private collection We left fairly early having exhausted topics of conversation and photography. Henphong wanted us to...
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singing and meeting of boys and girls diaries Konyak Wakching 31.8.1970 Furer-Haimendorf 12.8.1970-9.9.1970 private collection Later this evening we went to Wakching and observed the nightlife of the ...
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jew's harp and string instruments diaries Konyak Wakching 31.8.1970 Furer-Haimendorf 12.8.1970-9.9.1970 private collection We also heard the girls' and boys' playing on jew's harp Next Previous
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boys and girls still have sexual relations in granaries diaries Konyak Wakching 31.8.1970 Furer-Haimendorf 12.8.1970-9.9.1970 private collection I understand that as in the old times boys and girls sl...
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drive to Wanching diaries Konyak Wanching 1.9.1970 Furer-Haimendorf 12.8.1970-9.9.1970 private collection Wakching, 1st September This weather continues to be fine. This morning we drove to Wanching. ...
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little change diaries Konyak Wanching 1.9.1970 Furer-Haimendorf 12.8.1970-9.9.1970 private collection Wanching is even less touched by modern influences than Wakching. Only a minority of the inhabitan...
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a few items of modern dress diaries Konyak Wanching 1.9.1970 Furer-Haimendorf 12.8.1970-9.9.1970 private collection There are a few items of modern dress among the men and children, but otherwise the ...
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the resistance movement diaries Konyak Wanching 1.9.1970 Furer-Haimendorf 12.8.1970-9.9.1970 private collection During the period of the underground movement Wanching was once completely surrounded by...
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bringing rice into the granary diaries Konyak Wakching 1.9.1970 Furer-Haimendorf 12.8.1970-9.9.1970 private collection At Wakching I filmed the bringing in of rice into the (68) granaries. Their doors...
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girls at the well ; Henlong's house diaries Henlong Shoupa Konyak Wakching 2.9.1970 Furer-Haimendorf 12.8.1970-9.9.1970 private collection Wakching, 2nd September Today was my last full day in Wakchin...
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son of former blacksmith (Wangpo) ; opium smoking diaries Wangpo Konyak Wakching 2.9.1970 Furer-Haimendorf 12.8.1970-9.9.1970 private collection Several men stopped me in the village and reminded me o...
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many guns and few wild animals diaries Chinyang Shoupa Konyak Wakching 2.9.1970 Furer-Haimendorf 12.8.1970-9.9.1970 private collection Shoupa entertained us with the meat of a freshly killed deer. The...
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carrying baskets into village diaries Konyak Wakching 2.9.1970 Furer-Haimendorf 12.8.1970-9.9.1970 private collection In the late afternoon I went once more to the village and even in the dusk men and...
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Liplung sings songs of the old times in the girl's dormitories diaries Liplung Konyak Wakching 2.9.1970 Furer-Haimendorf 12.8.1970-9.9.1970 private collection In Shoupa's house Liplung came to be phot...
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leaving in sadness diaries Konyak Wakching 2.9.1970 Furer-Haimendorf 12.8.1970-9.9.1970 private collection I left Wakching sadly with the feeling that probably I would not return. Perhaps it is better...
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useless new hall diaries Konyak Wakching 2.9.1970 Furer-Haimendorf 12.8.1970-9.9.1970 private collection (69) In the centre of the village, on the very highest part is a tin-roofed building, - decorat...
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a good meal diaries Konyak Wakching 2.9.1970 Furer-Haimendorf 12.8.1970-9.9.1970 private collection Tonight we were lavishly entertained in the house of the S.D.O.P.W.D., who is from Kerala and provid...
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saying goodbye diaries Ngamang Konyak Wakching 3.9.1970 Furer-Haimendorf 12.8.1970-9.9.1970 private collection Mon, 3rd September The morning was lovely and I took my fill of the gorgeous view from th...
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disappointment , only Ang's house remains in Longkhai diaries Konyak Longkhai 3.9.1970 Furer-Haimendorf 12.8.1970-9.9.1970 private collection After breakfast we went to Longkhai, the village I remembe...
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old woman greets Haimendorf with enthusiasm diaries Likau Mauwang Konyak Longkhai 3.9.1970 Furer-Haimendorf 12.8.1970-9.9.1970 private collection In the porch of the Ang's house we found a shrivelled ...
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older women and school children gather diaries Konyak Longkhai 3.9.1970 Furer-Haimendorf 12.8.1970-9.9.1970 private collection While we talked to her other old women gathered and marvelled at the pict...
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most people in modern dress diaries Konyak Longkhai 3.9.1970 Furer-Haimendorf 12.8.1970-9.9.1970 private collection The Ang's brother and a gaonbura were still more or less in traditional dress, but m...
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mass conversion to Christianity diaries Konyak Longkhai 3.9.1970 Furer-Haimendorf 12.8.1970-9.9.1970 private collection There are various reasons for the changes in Longkhai. The entire village was co...
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morungs collapsing diaries Konyak Longkhai 3.9.1970 Furer-Haimendorf 12.8.1970-9.9.1970 private collection Of the three morungs only one is being maintained, while the other two have been allowed to c...
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Longkhai burnt for involvement with resistance movement diaries Mauwang Konyak Longkhai 3.9.1970 Furer-Haimendorf 12.8.1970-9.9.1970 private collection The second reason for the changes in Longkhai is...
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